Monday, January 28, 2013

Sunday Strolling in Villa Borghese Park

One very nice thing about living at the American Academy is that, even though Tom is out of town for a couple of weeks, I never have a chance to get lonely.  I still eat my meals with friends, get invited to movie nights, and even tried out a spinning class with a few other fellows last week. (Apparently, the instructor was on his "best behavior" since he had a new participant, but I hear he normally spends most of the class just sitting on the bike and/or chasing his kids around the room while eating candy....)  Of course, there's also all of Rome to explore, and so when we got a break from the rain over the weekend, I didn't let being "da sola" ("on my own") stop me from getting out there.  

Walking in Villa Borghese
I decided to make the trip over to Villa Borghese Park, which has been on my list of things to see in the city for a long time now.  After Doria Pamphili (the park in my neighborhood, which I wrote about here), Villa Borghese is the second largest public park in Rome.  At one time, the area had been a vineyard, but in the early 1600s, the Borghese family began converting the area into extensive gardens.  In the early 1900s, the city of Rome purchased the land and opened it to the public.  Nowadays, the park is also well-known for being home to the Galleria Borghese, a museum which showcases the Borghese art collection, including many paintings and sculptures.  

The park is on the other side of town from the Academy, but I enjoyed the hour or so long walk (mostly along the river) over there.  If I haven't said it before, I really love how walkable of a city Rome is.  I've visited so many different sites, and have probably only used public transportation a handful of times.  There was a major chill in the air while I was out (when I left the Academy it was 39 degrees outside), but there wasn't a cloud in the sky, and so the sun kept me nice and warm.  It reminded me a lot of those very early spring days in Minnesota where everyone rushes outside in their t-shirts despite there still being a few patches of snow on the ground.    

Piazza del Popolo
When I first entered the park, I was treated to an impressive view of Piazza del Popolo ("People's Square"), and a "one man band" added to the ambiance by playing jazzy songs like "when the saints come marching in" on trombone.   There were tons of people everywhere, and, as I began to wander around, it quickly became clear that this park had a very different vibe than what I was used to.

If Villa Doria Pahmphilli is the place to work out, then Villa Borghese is definitely the place to hang out.  Although I saw a few runners and bikers here and there (Rome's largest gym, the Roman Sports Center is actually tucked into one corner of the park), the vast majority of the visitors weren't wearing athletic clothes, and were clearly there just to meet up with friends, wander around, and/or let their kids burn off a bit of energy.  

St. Peter's Cathedral though the statues in Villa Borghese
One Man Band

Swiss Family Robinson-ish Club House Thing (??)
In many ways, the park is geared towards kids- or, at least the young at heart.  There are segway and bike rentals (including those large four wheeled, multi-passenger peddle-bikes), pony rides, a couple small amusement park type rides, and plenty of vendors selling balloons, pizza and gelato. There was also puppet house (although the puppets looked a bit creepy to me), a small zoo of sorts (which you can visit for a fee), and a few other "attractions" that I couldn't quite figure out (see, for example, the photo on the right). Given all of this, it's no surprise that there were kids everywhere.  Many of them were actually dressed in princess or superhero costumes, and I'm still not sure whether it was some sort of kid holiday/special event, or if wearing a costume is just the sort of things kids do for a trip to Villa Borghese.

Pony and Balloons
Segway in an Unusual Setting
Italian Kids Start in on Soccer at a Young Age! 

Sculpture Gardens
However, there is also plenty for adults to see and do in the park, too.  In addition to the Galleria, there are a couple other museums (one of modern art and another of Etruscan art), gardens, a lake, fountains, and, if you stray a bit off the paved streets, some incredibly beautiful natural scenery. Somehow I managed to miss the lake (which probably would have been my favorite part of the park), but I'm sure that we'll be planning another trip soon after Tom is back in town.  You'll have to excuse the cliche, but there really is something for everyone here- even an enormous dog park for Fido to enjoy!  (Incidentally, "Fido"means "trust" in Italian, although I have no idea if this has anything to do with the origin of the name.)

Galleria Borghese (minus the scaffolding that's there now!)
Even though I didn't visit any of the museums (I decided to wait on  Tom for that), I spent a good two hours just walking around the park and taking in all of the sites. Much to my surprise, the park was actually incredibly easy to navigate. There were signs and maps at almost every intersection (a real rarity here in Rome), and, if that weren't enough, all of the streets and landmarks have descriptive names.  During my time at the park, I walked down "Viale dei Pupazzi" ("Puppet Avenue") and "Viale delle Belle Arte" ("Avenue of  the Beautiful Art"), and strolled by (my personal favorite) " Valle dei Cuccioli" ("Valley of the Puppies").

In the Park
Online Photo of Lake That I Will Visit Next Time!!
Sunny Trails!

Overall, I had a great time at Villa Borghese, but after my visit, I have to say I'm grateful that it's Villa Doria Pamphili that's practically in my backyard.  Maybe it just holds a special place in my heart after spending so much time there, but it also has a more peaceful, less commercial quality that I really enjoy.  With that said, things do tend to grow on me over time, so don't be surprised if I change my tune after a couple more visits- especially if the lake has rowboat rentals!

Alla Prossima,
Erin

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Mon. Jan 28:  The rain is back, but the forecast promises sun (and highs near 60!!) by the end of the week!   

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Four Reasons Why I Will Never Be Fluent in Italian

One of the things that has always bummed me out about having grown up in the US is that I had virtually no exposure to foreign language at an early age.  There was no foreign language instruction until high school (too late of an age in my opinion- and in the opinions of many scientists), no one in my family spoke any other languages, and (while perhaps this is changing a bit nowadays), you never had any exposure to foreign languages in Minnesota the 80s and 90s.  I always thought it would be cool to grow up in Europe instead, where you'd be surrounded by many more different cultures and languages.  I mean, imagine, for example, if any time you headed from Minnesota over the border to Wisconsin you'd hear and see a different language. Sure, you might not learn all of it, but I bet at the very least you'd learn how to read streets signs, how to order at a restaurant, and would probably even pick up a few choice words with which to insult Packers fans.  This is what I imagine it's like for many Europeans living close to country borders, and it's perhaps one reason why 53% of Europeans report knowing a foreign language, while only 18% of Americans do.  

Of course, that's not to say that it's impossible to learn a foreign language later in life.  In fact, I know many people who have done so extremely successfully. However, it often takes much more effort and dedication, and almost everyone I know who has truly become fluent in a foreign language has spent significant time in a foreign country.

That's why I was hopeful that having a year in Italy would be just the trick for me to finally develop at least conversational fluency in a foreign language.  Not only would I be taking an Italian class and have an abundance of time to study, but I'd be living in the country, seeing, hearing, and speaking the language on a daily basis.  Or, at least, that's what I thought. Don't get me wrong, I've still learned a lot of Italian in a very short time (my Italian is probably as good as my (now-forgotten) Spanish was after four years of classes in high school, for whatever that's worth), but I'm still so far from being anywhere near fluent.  If I can manage to convey an idea to an Italian speaker, chances are I  still won't fully understand their response.  This might be because they are speaking too fast, because they using complex verb forms I haven't mastered, and/or just because they happened to use one of the four other words for "folder" or "dresser" that I haven't learned yet.

However, I think my difficulty in mastering Italian runs even deeper that.  Here are a few (four to be specific) reasons why I'm not yet fluent in Italian (and why I likely never will be):

1.   Everyone (and Their Fratello) Speaks English

My first clue that it would be a challenge to learn the language probably should have been that we are living at the American Academy in Rome.  The vast majority of the people living here are native English speakers (and most of those who aren't know English), so virtually every conversation I have been involved in here is conducted in English.

Of course, we do leave the Academy from time to time, but even then our interactions in Italian are fairly limited, and usually consist of ordering food, or asking basic questions.  Oftentimes, the person we are interacting with will speak much better English than we do Italian and so will just switch to English after detecting our accent.  I'm sure they think that they are doing us a favor, but I'd actually much prefer to keep trying in Italian (even if it's a bit annoying for them!).  We have certainly met some people that are extremely sweet and patient with us (especially when we have traveled in other parts of the country), but I have also met others (mostly women, actually), who just glare and/or act like I'm the dumbest person they've ever met when I attempt to use my Italian.  Still, since more people tend to speak English in the big cities than in smaller communities, I have probably done more for my vocabulary and speaking skills by traveling here than by doing anything else.

Unfortunately, though, traveling sometimes leads to a second problem:

2.  Some Italians Can't Even Understand Each Other
Map of Italian Dialects

Due to its historical and political background, Italy has a lot of dialects.  And while some have only minor differences (like the differences in speech patterns between a Midwesterner and a Bostonian, for example), some are much more pronounced.  Some dialects might use completely different sounds or even different words to convey the same meaning.  In fact, the language spoken in the South of Italy is so distinct from that in Northern Italy that movies from the South are often subtitled so that all Italians can understand them!

If you take an Italian class or study a textbook, what you'll learn is "standard" Italian.  This Italian is based on the Italian spoken in and around Florence, and it's also the dialect used in most Italian newspapers, magazines, TV shows, etc.  Nowadays, most Italians (or at least those on the mainland) do know and speak standard Italian in addition to their own local dialect, but many Italians still regularly use their local dialect, too.  This can be tough for visitors who think they know a bit of Italian, since any tiny deviation from what you expect to hear can really throw you through a loop!

Luckily for us, the dialect here in Rome, Romanesco, isn't too far off from standard Italian.  It is, however, thought to be a bit "rougher" sounding, and has a few phonetic differences from standard Italian (as well as slightly different uses of articles).  Because of this, it still can significantly change the sound of a sentence, like in this example I found online:  

English:  Guys, let's go to the bar and drink a beer!
Standard Italian:  Andiamo ragazzi al bar da bere un una birra!
Romanesco:  Nnamo regazzi al bare da trinca 'na bira!  

Of course, at this point a lot of Italian still just sounds like this to me, so I'm not really in a position to greatly expound on the nuances of our local dialect!  Still, I know enough to know that it makes things difficult.  

3.   Italians Say a Lot Without Even Speaking

Not only do Italians tend to get really vocally animated when they talk (I almost always think that people are upset even when they're just discussing something as mundane as the weather), but they communicate a whole lot with their hands, too.  

Examples of Some Italian Hand Gestures
To be clear Italians don't "talk with their hands" the way that some Americans do by being very lively and moving their arms sporadically about as they tell a story.  Instead, here in Italy, there are actually dozens of well-known hand gestures that have very specific meanings (just like nodding or shaking your head would clearly conveys "yes" or "no" in many places).  The gestures might mean anything from "please" to "I'm bored," to much more insulting/offensive things, and may or may not be accompanied by verbal communication.

At this point, I barely know what any of the gestures mean and when I'm communicating with Italians, I basically try to avoid moving my hands much at all.  If I did, I'm sure that I would either 1) accidentally "say" something completely inappropriate and get myself involved in a fight, 2) embarrass myself as the "Americana" attempting to use Italian hand gestures, and/or 3) just look like a raving lunatic.

I will admit that a few times I have subconsciously made the gesture in figure (6) in the picture to the left (which involves a making quick back and forth motion, toward and away from your body, while in this position), but I always use it the wrong context.  When used properly, this gesture indicates disagreement with something that someone is saying.  For example, you might start making this motion when someone says "the Packers are the greatest football team of all time!'  However,  I always instead end up doing it when I'm just really impassioned about something.  I suppose sometimes those two concepts might overlap, but I probably need to make an effort to not make this gesture when I'm saying something like "I'd love some gelato right now!"

In any case, the bottom line is that even if you master the language of Italian, you'll never be mistaken for a local unless you can master the hand gestures, too.  And, frankly, I don't expect that to happen for me anytime soon!

4.  Idioms Are Always Ridiculous to the Foreign Speaker
Hilarious Comic in which Pinocchio and Little Red
Riding Hood Wish Each Other Good Luck
(Think about it after reading the translations to the left!)

I imagine an issue with learning any foreign language is that some things just don't translate well, and languages are full of idioms and slang that you'll never learn from a textbook.  Oftentimes, then, when we hear something that doesn't quite make sense, we're not sure if we heard wrong, or if we just don't know the phrase.  Since we don't hang out with a lot of native Italians, we don't have the opportunity to learn too many idioms or slang, but every once in a while we will come across a fun one.  Tom learned the following in class:  

You know how some English-speakers use the phrase "break a leg!" to mean "good luck"?  Well, the Italians have some figures of speech to express this concept, too.  Most commonly, they  say "in bocca al lupo," which means "in the mouth of the wolf."  Generally, one responds with "Crepi!" meaning "may it die." (I know, poor wolf, but I think it actually makes a lot more sense than "break a leg" does!)  However, if the wolf's mouth isn't exciting enough for you, there's also a more vulgur version, "in culo alla balena," which seriously means "into the whale's ass."  Hilariously, though, the response to this one isn't "Crepi," but instead "speriamo che non caghi," or "let's hope it doesn't shit."  And, really, who can argue with that?

So, as you may have gathered, I still have a long way to go in reaching my goal of being able to converse fairly effortlessly in Italian.  Still, as they say, sometimes the journey is better than the destination, and so if you'll excuse me, it's time to review some indirect object pronouns.  

Alla Prossima,
Erin

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Tues. Jan. 22:  In the last two days we've seen our first bits of sun in weeks.  It's almost like we've been living in Seattle, with lots of gloom and rain and mist and highs around 50 every day.  I keep hoping we'll get a dusting of snow (since it's gotten down close to freezing at night), but we've had no such luck yet!

Saturday, January 12, 2013

A Tour of the Academy

After a wonderful trip home over the holidays, Tom and I are now settling back into life at the Academy (well, except for the jet lag induced insomnia, but who wants to sleep between the hours of 2 AM and 6 AM anyway?).  It was hard to leave Minnesota since we had such a great time visiting with our families (and getting our fill of snow, NFL football, oatmeal, peanut butter, and tacos!), but it's also nice to get back to what now feels like our "normal" life.

Looking into the AAR courtyard (through the entryway)
Speaking of normal life, I've realized that I've posted a lot about our trips and about sight seeing around Rome, but haven't shared all that much about the Academy itself, where we actually spend the majority of our time.  So- especially since we haven't done much sight seeing since we've returned- I thought this would be the perfect opportunity to show you around our home for the year. (By the way, I took many of the pictures in this post earlier in the year, and also took a few shots from the Academy website, so if things look especially green for winter, it's probably because it actually wasn't winter at the time.)  

Really, I should have written this post back in September after the President of the American Academy in Rome (often abbreviated "AAR") gave a very interesting presentation on the history of the institution.  My memory is a bit foggy on some of the details at this point, but the basic history goes like this:  The Academy as we now know it actually began as an architecture school,  which prominent American architects opened in Rome in the 1890s.  The idea was that the school would provide an opportunity for up and coming American architects to study classical design in-person, and that they could then later incorporate their knowledge into their work back home.  However, shortly thereafter, in the 1910s, the architecture school merged with the American School of Classical studies, and so- to this day- the Academy serves as a work retreat (or is that an oxymoron?) for both artists and scholars who would benefit from spending time here in Rome.

The McKim Building (from the front gate entrance)
The Academy was located elsewhere in its early days, but in the early 1900s, it relocated to its present location, on a hill just west of the city center.  The legend is that, at that time, this area still felt rather remote to the city of Rome, and so the founders were a bit hesitant to build here.  However, after seeing that, due to the elevation the American Academy would "look down on" the French Academy, they determined that this was the right spot after all.  The Academy then constructed its main building, the McKim building, in the 1910s, and has obtained other nearby buildings for additional space in subsequent years.

Our Room (with our new Ikea bedspread!)
The McKim building is considered the "heart" of the Academy, and it is also the building in which Tom and I spent virtually all of our time.  Structurally speaking, the building is four-stories and consists of four corridors around a small central courtyard.  All of the fellows without children live in this building, and many visiting scholars and residents live here too (fellows and residents with children live in a separate nearby apartment building).  As an interesting side note, until sometime in the 1980s none of the rooms in this building had private bathrooms. Instead, fellows used common bathrooms down the hall (just like in college).  Lucky for us, though, we now have our very own (albeit tiny) bathroom to use any time we want!  In addition, like most of the other scholars, Tom has his own office space in the McKim building (which is nice, since it allows us to have a bit of space from one another at times).  Many of the artists have large studio spaces here, too, where they can really spread out and work on their projects.  On our floor (the 2nd floor), there's also a laundry room, a community kitchen (where we make breakfasts or weekend meals), and a shared living room space, with couches,  a TV, and even a treadmill!

Tom in his Office (with a book and coffee, per usual)
2nd Floor Community Kitchen
2nd Floor Shared Lounge Room

Dining Room (photo by Margaret Monteith)
However, the McKim building isn't just for living and work space- it's also the place where the whole community gathers together, both formally and informally.  Apparently, in the '70s and '80s the building became rather run down due to a lack of maintenance (and funding!), but as a result of lots of renovations over the past couple of decades, it's now a very beautiful place to live, work, and socialize.  The main floor houses some administrative offices, the mail room, a "salone" (where people often chat before dinner or where informal piano recitals or poetry readings often take place), a billiard room (which probably has a more formal name of some sort), the dining hall (where we eat our weekday lunches and dinners in winter- in the warmer months we eat outdoors), and the bar (where you can grab a muffin, a cappuccino, or a glass of wine, depending on the time of day).

The Academy Bar with our bartender, Gabriel (photo by David Bordow)


The Cryptoporticus
The "basement" level of the McKim building contains a large lecture room, where fellows and other visitors often give presentations, and also the cryptoporticus (basically a covered arched walkway), where people gather to chat before and after these occasions.  However, I think Tom's favorite part of the lower level, (or perhaps the whole building) is the removable floor tile in the cryptoporticus, which provides access to a (now dry) ancient aqueduct.  Some people have gone down there to explore, but looking down from a safe distance has been good enough for me (given my klutzy nature, I'm pretty sure I'd sprain and ankle on my way down).

4th Floor Balcony
On the other hand, my favorite parts of the building are those that give me access to the great outdoors- the fourth floor balcony and the Bass Garden.  The balcony on the fourth floor provides great views of the neighborhood and is a great spot to have a cup of tea or do some Italian homework on sunny afternoons (although, lately, the cold rainy weather has prevented me from spending any time up there!).  The Bass Garden is essentially the backyard of the McKim building.  The large grassy space has plenty of nice big shade trees and lots of benches and chairs to rest on.  In various areas there are also fruit trees, herbs, and vegetables, which the kitchen uses as part of the Rome Sustainable Food Project.  There's also a bocce ball court and grill, which we really need to make better use of once we get some spring weather!  Finally, towards the back of the Garden is a small building, the "Casa Rustica," where a few of the fellows have their work space.  The Casa Rustica was actually a tavern back in the 1800s (or so) and apparently also sits on the site where Galileo first tested his telescope (or so legend holds)!  (There is also a rumored ghost in the building, although I really have no credible information to share on that point at this time).  

The Bass Garden
Casa Rustica

Dining Room in Villa Aurelia
The only other Academy building we've really spent any time is is the Villa Aurelia.  As the name suggests, the Villa Aurelia is a large, fancy mansion, which was left to the Academy after the owner's death in the early 1900s.  This building has a much more interesting history than the McKim building:  It was built in the 1650s for Cardinal Girolamo Farnese, and then was used by Garibaldi in 1849 as the headquarters for the Roman Republic's defense against the French Army.  As a result, the building was badly damaged, but was ultimately restored by the aforementioned American heiress (who then left the building to the Academy).

We have only been to the Villa Aurelia on a couple of occasions, as it's really only used for especially fancy events/receptions to which extended members of the community (trustees, special guests, etc.) might be invited.  Well-off couples can also rent the space from the Academy for special events, like weddings or other large receptions.  (In fact, Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes used the space for their rehearsal dinner!)  It's truly a breathtaking space, and, although I've only seen glimpses of some of the rooms, I imagine it's the type of building where royalty would feel right at home.  Although we don't get to officially visit often, it is possible to view the Villa Aurelia gardens by special request, and when my friend Kahla was in town, we even got to head up to the rooftop balcony, where we were treated to sweeping views of the city!

Villa Aurelia
Villa Aurelia Gardens
View from Villa Aurelia's Rooftop Deck

At the end of the day, it's true (even if a bit cliched) that what really makes the Academy such a special place is the people who live and work here.  Often visitors will come through who were fellows thirty or forty years ago, and they all speak so highly of their time here, despite the fact that they remember the building as being extremely cold, uncomfortable, decorated with broken furniture, and in a general state of total disrepair.  I like to think that we'd feel the same way even if we were in that same situation, but, frankly, it's really nice to live in a space that's pretty and warm and clean, too.  It makes us feel like we're not just visitors, and that this is actually our home.

Alla Prossima,
Erin

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Sat. Jan. 12:  More typical winter weather.  The days start out cool (lower 40s), but afternoon highs are usually in the mid-50s with a mix of rain/sun/clouds.  In any case, it's much better than the 5 degree weather we had most of the time in Minnesota!!!