Exploring the Italian Countryside in Vulci and Cosa

When I think of the Italian landscape, the first thing that comes to my mind is its major metropolitan centers:  the ancient ruins in Rome, the art in Florence, the canals of Venice, and the high fashion of Milan.  I suppose I'm just so used to seeing references to these cities in American culture that I felt I had a sense of them long before I ever actually visited.  Of course, as a nature-lover, my mind then quickly turns to the miles and miles of gorgeous Italian coastline.  (Honestly, if we could just move Florence to the location of Naples, it just might be the world's most perfect city.)

Campagna

Somehow, though, I always manage to forget that a huge portion of Italy is actually countryside (and I'm not just talking about the vineyards in Tuscany, either).  There are huge expanses of rolling hills, mountains, and even valleys and plains.  Every once in a while I'll get a glimpse of the campagna ("countryside"). You only have to run or bike about 8 miles out of Rome before you start seeing fields (and even sheep), and, when looking out the window while landing at the airport, I really felt like the pilot took a wrong turn and we were somewhere in Iowa rather than Italy.  But, despite these isolated occurrences, we haven't spent much time getting to know this part of Italy's landscape.

Vulci

Fortunately, last Friday, we finally had the chance to see a bit of it, when the Academy hosted a day-trip to a couple of sites about two hours north Rome.  Our first stop was, Vulci, which is an Etruscan City largely known for its ancient tombs.  The area has been developed as an "archeological park," and so there's a lot to please both history and nature enthusiasts.

We first toured a couple of these tombs, which Tom, of course, loved, and I found fairly interesting. The past archeological practice had been to strip out most anything you could (such as wall paintings or artifacts) and put them into a museum, so, if you don't know much about the site, it really just feels a bit like exploring a small cave.  My favorite part, though, might have been the graffiti, which said things like, "Paul was here- 1906."  Somehow, I think of graffiti as a modern development, but it's clearly not (in fact, you can actually see ancient graffiti in places like Pompeii).  

We then made our way over the river, which separates the two sides of the Park.  Unfortunately, we had to drive since heavy rainfalls destroyed the bridges last year, but it was well-worth taking the long way around. On the other side, we found the ruins of old city buildings,  rolling hills, horses, cows, and sheep, and even a small castle along the river bank.

Castle Near the River

Beautiful Scenery

Hungry Horse

Tom and I brought sandwiches along, so while some of the other visitors stopped for lunch in a small cafe, Tom, I, and another fellow traveler took a walk over to river.  We were able to find a spot to cut through some shrubs, and then scrambled down to a rocky ledge.  From there, we  had fabulous views of the river, bridges, and the castle, and for the brief twenty or so minutes that we were out there, I swear that the sun shined brighter and the temperature shot up (I literally went from wearing a coat and mittens to a t-shirt in a matter of minutes).

(Dirty-Looking but) Pretty River

Enjoying the Sun out on the Rocks

After lunch, we got back on the bus and drove over to the ancient Roman site of Cosa, where the American Academy had been involved in excavations during much of the 20th Century.  Unfortunately, I have to admit that I'm a bit lacking on the historical and archaeological details since I forgot to pay attention, but really there was so much natural beauty in the area that it was almost impossible not to get distracted.

Although Cosa is less developed than Vulci (at least for tourism purposes), if you know where you're going (which, luckily our guide did), you can find some really spectacular views, including glimpses of the sea.  I had a great time just wandering around the site and taking in all of the scenery.  The late afternoon light was especially beautiful, and really illuminated all of the greenery.  I can only imagine what it looks like in the spring and summer time!

Farmland

The Sea

Walking Along the Ruins

Cosa

Speaking of spring, this day-trip left me longing for more time in the country, so I started looking into the nearby region of Umbria (which you can get to pretty easily and cheaply from Rome).  I learned that April and May are wildflower season, so hopefully I'll be able to report back with more from the (poppy-covered) Italian countryside in the next couple of months.

Alla Prossima,
Erin

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Sat. Feb. 23:  I should have realized that spring temperatures would also mean spring rain!  It's warmer, but rainy and ridiculously windy.  Oh well, I'll be complaining about the heat soon enough, I'm sure! 

Fascist Architecture in Rome's EUR District

During our first few months here, it really seemed like we had all the time in the world to explore our new city.  We'd try to get out often, but if we were feeling tired or lazy or the weather wasn't ideal, we were also perfectly content just spending time here at the Academy.  However, sometime early this month, something changed, and I suddenly started to worry that we'd run out of time to see everything on our (fairly long) to-do list.  (Not to mention that there are many places that I'd love to revisit.)  So, to alleviate my concern (which sometimes borders on panic), we're now making a concerted effort to see at least one new thing every week, and this weekend we checked EUR off of our list.

The "Square Colosseum" in EUR

EUR (pronounced A-OR, not E-OR like the cartoon donkey), is a business district a bit south of the city center. The area receives very little tourist attention, which isn't completely surprising since it completely lacks the sorts of things most people  associate with Rome such as ancient ruins, narrow cobblestone streets, and lively, colorful markets and trattorias.  However, I think that's a bit of a shame, because it's a very interesting area steeped in a history all of its own.

The area got it's start in the 1930s as the planned site for the 1942's World Fair (EUR is actually an acronym for Esposizione Universale Roma).  As was the general practice, the city began to erect many new buildings in anticipation of hosting the Fair.  It was the vision of Fascist dictator Benito Mussollini that the buildings would serve as a tribute to fascism and modern Italy, while- at the same time- giving a nod back to the grandeur of ancient Rome.  However, the 1942 World's Fair never took place (due to the outbreak of WWII), and most of the project was left unfinished throughout the war.  The area had a revival, though, and during the 50s and 60s, many of the buildings were completed to serve as office space. A few new buildings (such as a sport complex) were also added in preparation for Rome's hosting of the 1960 Olympic Games.

Modern Obelisk

Although many people find EUR to have an unfinished, creepy, and/or depressing feel, I actually found it to be fascinating and beautiful in its own way.  The major buildings are all done in the modern style of architecture, and have a very crisp, clean, square look.  They were all very large (sometimes excessively so) and white(ish).  They also often incorporate classical elements into the design, such as columns, reliefs (sculpture built into a wall), and arches.  There was even a large obelisk in the center of EUR's "forum."

The most famous building in EUR is the Palazzo della Civita Italiana (pictured above), which many people refer to as the "square Colosseum," given the architectural similarities.  Honestly, EUR is probably worth a visit just to see that one odd building.

"The Spirit of Sport"

However, the area contains a lot of other modern buildings, statues and fountains, and I really enjoyed just walking around and taking in a part of Rome that felt so un-Rome like.

Perhaps the strangest (if not somehow simultaneously disturbing and hilarious) sites in EUR is a statue a man making the Fascist salute (which is the same as the Nazi salute).  Apparently, at one time it had been called, "The Spirit of Fascism." However, since this would now be extremely offensive to most people, the city added ancient "boxing gloves" to the statue's hands, and it's now known as "The Spirit of Sport."

Fountain with Rainbow

Palazzo Dei Congressi

Relief Showing History of Rome (from ancient times to WWII on bottom right)

Waterfall (with sports complex in background)

After a lunch at a cafeteria-style restaurant (I told you this whole place was very unusual!), Tom and I headed over to the other side of EUR to explore the giant man-made lake. And, yes, just like everything else in EUR, the lake was even square.  On some level, I wanted to dislike the lake and find it ridiculous.  Clearly, throughout the area, there's a desire to show man's dominance in the world, and so you really lose a sense of the natural beauty and landscape of the place. However, as someone who believes that all of the best landscapes involve water, I couldn't help finding it pretty on some level.  And once I saw the giant (man-made) waterfall, I was sold.

Even though it was in an urban business district, there were walking/biking trails all around the lake, and so Tom and I made it all the way around.  From a distance, we saw that one side of the lake appeared to be popular with kayakers, but when we got closer we realized it was actually an organized league sport, which involved kayaks, a ball, and nets.  We now refer to the game as "kayak basketball," and I have a hunch that Tom might try to start up a league in the US once we're back.

Lake in EUR 

More Man-Made Water Features 

"Kayak Basketball"

So, all in all, we had a fantastic day walking around in the warm sun, and exploring a new part of the city.  In case I sound too in love with the area, I should be clear that I would find it completely horrifying if all of Rome looked like this (as may have happened had Fascism not fallen).  After our afternoon out, it was very nice to come back into the heart of the city and see beautiful churches, the (natural) river, and little shops selling meat and cheese.  However, if you think of EUR as a glorified office park, it's by far the most beautiful one I've ever seen, and I'd take it over the unsightly strip malls that cover much of the US any day of the week!

Alla Prossima,
Erin

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Sun. Feb. 17:  It's less rainy and slightly warmer, with highs in the 50s.  Spring is on it's way!

Tombs, Villas, and Aqueducts: The Via Appia and Beyond

On Friday Tom and I bundled up (seriously, it was chilly- I even wore running tights under my jeans!) and headed out on one of the Academy-sponsored Friday walks.  This week we visited some of the sites along Via Appia Antinqua, which begins near the old city walls, just a few miles from where we live.

Engagement-Photo-like shot on the Via Appia

Via Appia (often called Appian Way in English) was an ancient Roman road, which was started around 300 BC.  The road led out of the city, and in subsequent years, it was extended southeast all the way to the Pulgia region (which is the "heel" part of the Italian "boot").  In ancient times, many people were buried along this road, since Roman law prohibited burial within the city walls.  In addition, members of the Roman elite often owned large villas in the area.  These villas served as country-estates of sorts, in addition to a house in the city (and possibly other villas elsewhere as well).

Today, a large park surrounds a portion of the Via Appia.  The area is breathtakingly gorgeous and is full of ancient ruins, tree-lined trails, and even mountain views.  In fact, it was so scenic that it's easy to forget  that you're actually still in Europe's fourth largest city.  On Sundays the road is completely closed to car traffic, but even on a weekday, the traffic was minimal (really, it didn't look too fun to drive over all of those cobblestones), and there were a lot of bikers and runners out on the road.

Mausoleum of Romulus at the Villa of Maxentius

After a brief stroll along the Appian Way, our group visited the Villa of Maxentius, which includes living space (currently being excavated), a circus (meaning a chariot racetrack not unlike the Circus Maximus), and a mausoleum (monument and burial site).  Although the villa had previous owners (including a man who possibly murdered his wife), it is named after the Roman Emperor Maxentius, who counted this villa as one of his many palaces.

This was one of those times when we were reminded of how lucky we are to be part of the American Academy community, since the public actually cannot visit most of this site.  We also had the opportunity to be shown around by the archeologist directing the excavations at the site, so we were able to learn a lot about it.  Interestingly, early excavations reveal that Mexentius's renovations on the villa may never have been completed, so it's not entirely clear to what extent he used it (although it is known that his son, Romulus, who drowned at the age of nine, was buried in the mausoleum).

View of the Circus at Maxentius's Villa

View of a 12th Century Castle from Maxentius's Villa 

Burial Monument along the Appian Way

After our visit to the villa, a few of us decided to continue our journey, and took an hour or so stroll over to another nearby park, Parco degli Acquedotti (or "Park of the Aqueducts").  It was a lot of fun to walk some more along the Appian Way, look at the burial monuments, and to just chat with friends and enjoy the sunny weather. It was also interesting to see a bit of the city between the parks, since it felt a lot quieter and quainter than the Rome we are used to.  It was actually a bit tricky to find, but we eventually ran into a nice old man who let us cut through a soccer field, and, from there, it wasn't too hard to cross the train tracks and make our way over to the aqueducts.

View of the City Between the Parks

Aqua Claudia

It was well worth our effort, though, because the aqueduct park was magnificent.  The highlight, of course, was seeing the ruins of the Aqua Claudia, a massive aqueduct built in the first century AD.  When in use, the aqueduct ran approximately 45 miles.  Much of its course was underground, but as it neared the city, the water flowed through a beautiful above-ground arched structure.

From a distance, the aqueduct looks impressive enough, but when standing next to the massive arches, we were really stuck by the extent of the ancient Romans' skill and ingenuity. Once again, the views from the park were absolutely beautiful, and we had a great time just wandering around the space for an hour or so.

A Little Perspective on the Size (That's me in the red mittens!)

Beautiful Park Scenery 

View of Another, Smaller Aqueduct in the Park

Afternoon Shadows in the Park

As with most things we've done, we hope to be back before our year here is over.  We had a great time even in the early February cold, so I can only imagine how much fun we'll have once it's warm enough to spread out a blanket, have a picnic, and maybe throw around a frisbee for a bit.  (I'm actually not too good at frisbee, but it sounds a bit more idyllic than  than that game with a ball and velcro mitts...)  Plus, you really do need more than one day to see everything these parks have to offer. Hopefully those warm sunny days will be here soon.  In the meantime, we hope all of our friends and family back home are staying warm in the cold and rain/snow. Spring shouldn't be too far off for you all, either!

Alla Prossima,
Erin

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Sun. Feb 10:  It's been sunny, but cold.  Lows around (or even below) freezing and highs only in the mid-40s.

Girls Night Out in Rome (American Pop Culture Style)

If my 22-year-old self met my 30-year-old self, she'd probably be a bit  disappointed in how boring I've become.  My evening attire is most often athletic shorts and a sweatshirt, my ideal Saturday night is being curled up on the couch with Tom, eating pizza and watching a movie, and I could probably count the number of times I've been out past midnight in recent months on one hand (after all, being out late makes it difficult to get up early on Sundays to run or go on other daytime adventures).  But, my 22-year-old self is just going to have to deal with it because my 30-year-old self absolutely loves this "lame" domestic lifestyle.    

Photos of the Club are all from the Internet, since mine just look like blurs

Still, every once in a while it's fun to spend a night out on the town and remind myself that I can still be young and hip and cool when I want to be.  (Or, at least, it's fun to attempt to be these things- the fact that I just used the word "hip" probably indicates that I'm not, in fact, very "cool" or "hip" or whatever term the kids are using these days.)  To be honest, I rarely have the motivation to plan such an evening myself, but luckily one of my friends here had a stroke of genius and planned a girls night out at a local club.  So, on Saturday, eight of us got dressed up (to the extent that our limited wardrobes allowed), donned a little extra eyeliner, and headed out (in cabs) to the Micca Club on the other side of the city.  

I need to figure out what this is and order some next time....

If I could take all my favorite things from every bar/club I've ever been to and roll it into one place, the Micca Club is what I'd end up with.  It had a fun yet classy vibe without seeming snotty or like it took itself too seriously, and the ambiance was fantastic.  It felt like being inside a roomy brick cave (caves are appealing, right?), which was filled with colored lights and interestingly dressed people.  Actually it probably wasn't *that* roomy by Minnesota standards, but after having lived in San Francisco for many years (where many bars are the size of a studio apartment), it felt enormous!  They also had a talented English-speaking bartender and an extensive cocktail list with some very unique options (such as the "taste divine,"which involved cinnamon and egg whites).  I stuck with red wine (normally I'd prefer a good microbrew on tap, but that's tough to find in Italy), but maybe next time I'll be a bit more adventurous.    

Dance Floor (which was much more crowded when we were there!)

The best part by far, though, was the music and the performances.  The DJ was spinning tunes from the 50's and 60's, which, to my surprise, meant American oldies and not Italian music, and so we had a blast dancing to Chubby Checker, Leslie Gore, The Isley Brothers, and even the Beach Boys' "Surfin' USA."  Since my parents always listened to oldies while I was growing up, it somehow feels like the music of my childhood, too, and I absolutely love it.  To add to the mood, they had old black and white film running showing various clips and scenes from that time period.

I have to say that it felt quite strange and hilarious to be dancing to American oldies in Italy, but all the Italians (even the younger ones) seemed to be familiar with the songs (even if they didn't quite know all the lyrics or the corresponding dance moves).  It's funny, obviously Italy has a very strong identity and culture of it's own, but American culture is still so pervasive here in a lot of ways.  It's easy to forget sometimes how influential our music, movies, slang, and even food is on other countries.  Of course, this influence can be for better or for worse (it bothers me to no end that Italians can buy their morning coffee at McDonalds), but in this case, the influence was a good one (at least in my opinion)!

In any case, there were people of all different ages in the club, and, much to my relief, there were no smokers (or, at least, no smoking inside the club) or handsy men to contend with.  Italian men sometimes get a bad rap (especially after "Jersey Shore" came out), but I have to say that they were a million times more laid back and respectful than many of the men you might encounter in American clubs.  Of course, the fact that it was drag night might have had something to do with that, but I'm still getting there...

From a different night, but similar to Saturday's show

So, if all of this wasn't already awesome enough, the club was also hosting a drag and burlesque show (with both male and female performers), which was amazing (although admittedly a bit off-theme from 50's and 60's night).  We saw "Cher" perform, watched a couple dance the Charleston (yes, the Charleston made it to Italy!), and saw enough sequins and feathers to dress a whole dance troupe (or an especially sassy marching band).  I like to tell myself that it was also a good "learning" experience since I did my best to understand all of the Italian that the MC spoke between acts, and during the course of the night, I did at the very least, 1) successfully ask the bartender for a glass of water, and 2) ask a girl if she was waiting for the bathroom (in Italian), so that's something.  

As you may be able to tell, I had a fantastic night out with the girls.  And, the best part is, since we're not 22 anymore, we left at a reasonable hour (around 1 AM), made it home without anyone fighting or  crying, and I didn't have to spend the rest of the night holding someone's hair over the toilet.  In fact, it was so much fun that I might be persuaded to wear something other than sweats on a Saturday night in the near future.  I do have a hunch that this isn't the only fun club in all of Rome, although it definitely will be a tough act to follow.

Alla Prossima,
Erin

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Mon. Feb. 4:  Spring is in the air!  Literally- things are starting to smell different and there are flying insects about, but weather-wise it's still a bit chilly- lows in the 30s and highs in the low to mid 50s.