Running in Rome (Part 2): Running Along the Tevere

I've found a new favorite spot to run in Rome!  Don't get me wrong, I still think the park I previously wrote about is great, and I still run often there too (especially when I'm short on time, since it's so close).  But, as a true water-lover (and how can you not adore water when you grow up in the Land of 10,000 Lakes?), the path along the Tevere has been an even more exciting find!

(looking down on) My New Favorite Running Spot

The Tevere is the Italian name for the river that most Americans know as the Tiber.  It's the third longest river in Italy, beginning in central Italy, flowing through Rome, and then entering into the sea just south of here in Ostia (very near where we went to the beach last weekend). Another fun tidbit (which it took us an embarrassingly long time to figure out), is that the neighborhood of Trastevere gets its name from this body of water. "Tra" means "across," and so the name "Trastevere" simply conveys the fact that this neighborhood is on the other side of the river from most of the city.  There's also a small "island" near Trastevere in the middle of the river (accessible by bridge), on which a bunch of temporary bars and food vendors spring up in the warm summer months.  We arrived too late in the year to get to experience the scene there, but we're looking forward to checking it out next summer!  

Although the Tiber was extremely important to Rome's development, especially in terms of trade and commerce, the flip side is that flooding has been a huge problem. Obviously, I'm no expert on the subject, but it's my understanding that floods regularly destroyed houses, monuments, and other important buildings in Rome for thousands of years.  In fact, ancient Romans actually found a way to fill in the Forum (a very large space) with over 6 meters of dirt to help protect that area from floods!

Tiber Island (from the street above)

In the late 1800s (at least that's what the internet tells me), Rome finally built huge walls (about 40 feet high) along either side of the Tiber.  So, now, if you're driving along the river or walking along the street, you're essentially at the top of the wall.  Of course, you can still see the water over the top, but it doesn't exactly feel like you're "at the river," since the water level is so much lower than street level.  However, much more recently, in the early 2000s, the city put in a running/biking path along the river's edge (inside of the walls). Occasionally the Tiber will flood and the space becomes unusable, but, for the most part, this new path allows Romans to get some exercise and enjoy the river all year long.

Cobblestones for Runners, Blacktop for Bikers

If the stereotype that Italians aren't very into exercising (other than playing soccer) is true, you really have to hand it to them for creating such a wonderful public space for doing just this!  First of all, in a city as old and densely populated as Rome, it's hard to believe that it's even public space to begin with (but, I suppose the fact that it's basically a massive flood plane helps with that)!  Beyond this, though, they've really created a beautiful and functional area in which to break a sweat.  As far as the basic set-up goes, there are actually two paths- one running along each side of the river, and they seem to be very well used by bikers, walkers, runners (and dogs!) of all ages.  Technically the path is divided into "bike lanes" (the blacktop) and then running/walking lanes (made out of cobblestones), but there's no way you're going to convince me that I should run for miles on cobblestones (even if I am generally a rule follower)!  Honestly, if this is what you're "supposed" to do, it's no wonder that Italians generally aren't very into running!  There is also some basic exercise equipment along the way (like pull up bars), which hopefully will encourage me to work on my upper body strength as well, since I don't otherwise belong to a gym here in Rome.  

Castel Saint'Angelo

It's also amazing that path is located in such a scenic location.  It's surprising, though, how varied that scenery can be.  At certain spots, it's impossible to mistake the fact that you're in Rome.  Looking up, you often see various cityscapes, including historic buildings, beautiful bridges decorated with statues, or even popular sites such as Castel Saint'Angelo (a fortress and castle, which was previously used by the popes).  But, if you keep your eyes on the river and the surrounding trees and flowers, at times you can almost convince yourself that you're running along the Mississippi in St. Paul, or even that you're just out in nature somewhere.  In all fairness, I should  mention that there are also some less scenic, slightly more industrial looking areas, but I like to think those areas just encourage me to run a bit faster to get to the next pretty sight!

Minnesota-like Scene Along the Tiber

Today I took a leisurely 8 mile run (no, that's an oxymoron!) along the river (stopping for many pictures along the way). The "good part" of the path runs about 2 miles in each direction from the Ponte Sisto (the bridge that's my starting point), so today I ran 2 miles south, then 4 miles north (passing my starting point halfway through), and then 2 miles south again back to the bridge (which is only about a 15 minute walk from the Academy- just down the hill and through Trastevere). You could actually run further on the north end, but things get a bit difficult, since the blacktop turns into concrete squares, which are separated by 1 inch grooves (and I really don't feel like spraining my ankle this year).

From a long-distance running perspective, I do wish the path was a bit longer, but I really can't complain, especially since I finally have flat black top to run on!  I know blacktop isn't the best material for my joints, but it is fun to finally get to run fast!  Plus, nothing beats being able to outpace and pass a boat on your run. Even if that boat is a paddle boat.  And even if that paddle boat is headed upstream...

Alla Prossima,
Erin

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Wed. Oct. 10:  so far it's still a bit summer-like:  sunny and highs in the mid 70s.  Let's hope the winter rains hold off so that my beloved path doesn't flood anytime soon!