Chestnuts Roasting on a Semi-Open Fire

Even though I'm not a particularly religious person, I have always loved the traditions that go along with the lead-up to Christmas (perhaps even more than the holiday itself).  I love watching the Christmas decorations (especially lights) go up around the city, love listening to the classic holiday songs, and love baking and eating Christmas cookies (Russian teacakes and thumbprints were always the standards at my house).

Cold Wintery Rome (note the snow-capped mountain in the background!)

I realize I've used the word "love" a whole lot in that last sentence, but there's really no other way to describe it.  I'm sure, from an outsider's perspective, our cultural obsession with all things Christmas would seem totally commercialized, over-the-top and a bit ridiculous.  Still,  having grown up in one of the snowiest, coldest, gloomiest winter states, I learned at an early age that one of the best ways to get through that horrible part of the year was to fully throw myself  into any holiday celebration I could.  (When I was little we also decorated the house for Valentine's Day and St. Patrick's day!  Of course, in retrospect, I probably would have liked Minnesota winters a lot more if I had gotten into cross country skiing, but that's a whole other story.)  The bottom line, though, is that Christmas time just doesn't feel like Christmas to me without certain special traditions.

Chestnuts and Decorations on the Streets of Rome

Because of this, being away from home at this time of year is always a bit strange, and I didn't know what to expect from Italy.  I assumed, since it's a predominately Catholic country, that Christmas was an important holiday, but I didn't have a sense of how much it would "feel" like the Christmas season I'm used to.  Fortunately,  Italy didn't disappoint.  Or- at least- it didn't disappoint too much.

I do have to say that our first attempt to get into the Christmas spirit here was a complete and total failure.  As you may know, many countries in Europe (but especially in Germany and Austria) have huge "Christmas Markets" this time of year, where tons of vendors line up to sell traditional Christmas gifts and crafts (ornaments, toys, wood carvings, etc) and foods (like gingerbread, hot cider, and mulled wine).  So, when we learned that the Austrian Society in Rome was hosting their own Christmas Market on December 1st, we didn't hesitate to make the hour and a half trip over there with a few other fellows. Unfortunately, though, what we found was less European Christmas Market and more like two old ladies had set up a garage sale of old random stuff (we're talking stuffed frogs and used baby clothes) in a church basement where they also sell bitter coffee and unremarkable chocolate cake.  Needless to say, it wasn't really what we needed to get into the Christmas spirit!

The Mercedes-Benz Tree (yes, seriously)

Luckily, though, things quickly took a turn for the better. On December 4th, the Academy brought in a Christmas tree for the Salone, which was decorated by many of the twenty-two (!!) kids living here.  I can't say it's the most beautiful looking tree of all time (since most of the decorators were under the age of 6, the tree is now covered with random patches of blinking white lights and blinking multicolored-lights, as well as a random spattering of ornaments), but it certainly captures the child-like excitement of the season.  Since all of our Christmas music is currently in a box stored on Treasure Island, Tom and I also started streaming some Christmas songs from the internet in our room, and before long it totally felt like Christmas around here.

The city of Rome also quickly got into the spirit of the holidays, and many of the neighborhoods now have lights in the shapes of icicles or bells hanging over its streets. There are also a few trees around town, including a large (but strangely undecorated) tree by the Spanish Steps, and a nearby "Mercedes-Benz" tree, which, I suppose, is fitting since it's on a street where you'd be hard pressed to find a pair of shoes for under $500.  Another fun holiday tradition in the city is all of the street vendors who sell chestnuts (which are roasting on a semi-open fire).  Honestly, they don't look nearly as good as what I always pictured when listening to the "Christmas Song," but I do feel like I should give them a try at some point.  Since it was abnormally chilly here the past couple of weeks (daytime temps were regularly in the 30s), it even felt like Christmas season outside- even if it did refuse to snow!  

Dead Body and Little Boy After the Christmas Play

However, the high point of our holiday here at the Academy was the annual Christmas Party (which happened just last night).  The purpose of this event is to bring the whole community together and for the fellows, residents, and their families, to thank the staff (the cooks, the gardeners, housekeeping, etc- I know, we're VERY spoiled).

One tradition of the holiday party is that every year the fellows put on a Christmas play- in Italian (!)- which invariably ends with Santa coming out to distribute gifts to children and to the staff.  I have to say that putting on a Christmas play with a group that includes amazing writers, artists, musicians, designers, and architects is an experience wholly different than any I had had goofing around as a kid. We ended up with a great script, and Tom was cast as the male lead, "Little Boy."  Essentially, the plot of the play (which was all done in Italian) is that "Little Boy" and "Little Girl" see and hear a singing star in the night and attempt to round up everyone in the community (scholars, artists, office workers, cooks, etc.) to come see it with them.  In the process, everyone realizes that they have gifts that they can bring the star (the artists create something, the cooks bring food, etc.) based on their own special talents.  I played the role of "dead body," which was great because I had no difficult Italian lines to memorize.  I got to wear an awesome costume, though, and basically just had to run around once the gardeners discovered me (actually, the joke of this bit was that the Academy really did find some ancient skeletons on its property a while back- although, in a place like this, you never really can be sure what's rumor and what's fact).  In any case, everyone had a great time, and after all the gifts were handed out to the kids and staff (it was really sweet just how excited all of the children got when Santa made his appearance), we all celebrated by drinking champagne and eating panettone and chocolates.

Academy Holiday Party

So, all in all, we've had a pretty darn Christmas-y Christmas season here, and we can't wait to celebrate even more with our families back in Minnesota!  (Of course, given that we are flying back on the 24th and have two layovers in potentially snowy cities- Paris and Chicago- I am already mentally preparing for the possibility of spending Christmas stuck in an airport... but let's hope that won't be the case!  Or, if it is, that we at least get stuck in an airport with a Chipotle!).

Alla Prossima,
Erin

---------
Sat. Dec. 15:  After a couple of weeks in the 30s, it's finally back up to the 50s (but rainy). and it feels like a heat wave!