Fascist Architecture in Rome's EUR District

During our first few months here, it really seemed like we had all the time in the world to explore our new city.  We'd try to get out often, but if we were feeling tired or lazy or the weather wasn't ideal, we were also perfectly content just spending time here at the Academy.  However, sometime early this month, something changed, and I suddenly started to worry that we'd run out of time to see everything on our (fairly long) to-do list.  (Not to mention that there are many places that I'd love to revisit.)  So, to alleviate my concern (which sometimes borders on panic), we're now making a concerted effort to see at least one new thing every week, and this weekend we checked EUR off of our list.

The "Square Colosseum" in EUR

EUR (pronounced A-OR, not E-OR like the cartoon donkey), is a business district a bit south of the city center. The area receives very little tourist attention, which isn't completely surprising since it completely lacks the sorts of things most people  associate with Rome such as ancient ruins, narrow cobblestone streets, and lively, colorful markets and trattorias.  However, I think that's a bit of a shame, because it's a very interesting area steeped in a history all of its own.

The area got it's start in the 1930s as the planned site for the 1942's World Fair (EUR is actually an acronym for Esposizione Universale Roma).  As was the general practice, the city began to erect many new buildings in anticipation of hosting the Fair.  It was the vision of Fascist dictator Benito Mussollini that the buildings would serve as a tribute to fascism and modern Italy, while- at the same time- giving a nod back to the grandeur of ancient Rome.  However, the 1942 World's Fair never took place (due to the outbreak of WWII), and most of the project was left unfinished throughout the war.  The area had a revival, though, and during the 50s and 60s, many of the buildings were completed to serve as office space. A few new buildings (such as a sport complex) were also added in preparation for Rome's hosting of the 1960 Olympic Games.

Modern Obelisk

Although many people find EUR to have an unfinished, creepy, and/or depressing feel, I actually found it to be fascinating and beautiful in its own way.  The major buildings are all done in the modern style of architecture, and have a very crisp, clean, square look.  They were all very large (sometimes excessively so) and white(ish).  They also often incorporate classical elements into the design, such as columns, reliefs (sculpture built into a wall), and arches.  There was even a large obelisk in the center of EUR's "forum."

The most famous building in EUR is the Palazzo della Civita Italiana (pictured above), which many people refer to as the "square Colosseum," given the architectural similarities.  Honestly, EUR is probably worth a visit just to see that one odd building.

"The Spirit of Sport"

However, the area contains a lot of other modern buildings, statues and fountains, and I really enjoyed just walking around and taking in a part of Rome that felt so un-Rome like.

Perhaps the strangest (if not somehow simultaneously disturbing and hilarious) sites in EUR is a statue a man making the Fascist salute (which is the same as the Nazi salute).  Apparently, at one time it had been called, "The Spirit of Fascism." However, since this would now be extremely offensive to most people, the city added ancient "boxing gloves" to the statue's hands, and it's now known as "The Spirit of Sport."

Fountain with Rainbow

Palazzo Dei Congressi

Relief Showing History of Rome (from ancient times to WWII on bottom right)

Waterfall (with sports complex in background)

After a lunch at a cafeteria-style restaurant (I told you this whole place was very unusual!), Tom and I headed over to the other side of EUR to explore the giant man-made lake. And, yes, just like everything else in EUR, the lake was even square.  On some level, I wanted to dislike the lake and find it ridiculous.  Clearly, throughout the area, there's a desire to show man's dominance in the world, and so you really lose a sense of the natural beauty and landscape of the place. However, as someone who believes that all of the best landscapes involve water, I couldn't help finding it pretty on some level.  And once I saw the giant (man-made) waterfall, I was sold.

Even though it was in an urban business district, there were walking/biking trails all around the lake, and so Tom and I made it all the way around.  From a distance, we saw that one side of the lake appeared to be popular with kayakers, but when we got closer we realized it was actually an organized league sport, which involved kayaks, a ball, and nets.  We now refer to the game as "kayak basketball," and I have a hunch that Tom might try to start up a league in the US once we're back.

Lake in EUR 

More Man-Made Water Features 

"Kayak Basketball"

So, all in all, we had a fantastic day walking around in the warm sun, and exploring a new part of the city.  In case I sound too in love with the area, I should be clear that I would find it completely horrifying if all of Rome looked like this (as may have happened had Fascism not fallen).  After our afternoon out, it was very nice to come back into the heart of the city and see beautiful churches, the (natural) river, and little shops selling meat and cheese.  However, if you think of EUR as a glorified office park, it's by far the most beautiful one I've ever seen, and I'd take it over the unsightly strip malls that cover much of the US any day of the week!

Alla Prossima,
Erin

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Sun. Feb. 17:  It's less rainy and slightly warmer, with highs in the 50s.  Spring is on it's way!