The (Pope-less) Vatican

St. Peter's Square from Above (stock photo)

It's an exciting time to be living in Rome.

In case you've been living in a cave for the past few weeks, Pope Benedict XVI resigned on February 28th, marking the first time any Pope had done so since 1415.  Unsurprisingly, this event has stirred up a lot of excitement here in Rome (and all around the world).  Although there's been a huge media presence outside the Vatican, little is still known about several major issues such as (1) why did the Pope resign?  (2) when will a new Pope be chosen? and (3) who will be the new Pope?

Of course, that hasn't stopped nearly everyone from speculating on the answers.

Pope Benedict XVI Giving a Sunday Address (back in October)

As to the first question, the official reason given by Benedict for his resignation was his deteriorating strength in "body and mind."  This seems fairly plausible, given his advanced age (85), until you consider that none of the Popes over the last 600 years let their deteriorating health stop them (and, in fact, Gregory XII, who was the last Pope to resign, in 1415, only did so to end a debate as to who was the rightful claimant to the Papacy).   

Italian Vanity Fair Cover

Given this, there are now many theories/rumors in circulation as to the "real" reason for his resignation, including that Benedict had no real power and that attempts to get the Vatican bank out from under Mafia control were thwarted by his second in command, and that Benedict's involvement in covering up sex scandals ("gay sex rings" between priests) will soon come to light.

Some are also speculating that Benedict is involved in a gay relationship himself (although, even if true, it's not entirely clear if that would have played into his resignation decision).  This last rumor has mostly come out of the fact that Benedict (who now holds the title "Pope Emeritus") will continue to live in the Vatican with his (much younger and very attractive) secretary, Georg Ganswein.  As a hilarious side note, Italian Vanity fair recently ran an article about Ganswein using the headline "it's not a sin to be beautiful," and calling him the "George Clooney of St. Peter's." 

In any case, whatever the real reason, I imagine that many will continue debating it for a long time to come.  

Trio of Nuns Being Interviewed by Media

Unfortunately, the answer to the second question, when the new Pope will be selected, isn't any more clear than the first. Generally speaking, a Pope is chosen in closed meeting of the cardinals called a "conclave."  This meeting takes place in the Sistine Chapel, often over the course of a few days.  All Cardinals under  the age of 80 vote (the idea being that the older ones are somehow "too old"), and  the Cardinal ultimately receiving 2/3 plus one of these votes (which normally takes several votes) is elected the new Pope.

Normally, a conclave starts 14 days after the death of the last Pope (to allow time for grieving and for Cardinals to travel to Rome), but in this case, the timeline was a bit less clear since Benedict announced his resignation in advance.  The rules were changed to allow a conclave to start earlier than the 14 days, and the Cardinals have held meetings to decide when the conclave should start, but as of yet, it has not started, and no date has been announced.  In any case, at the very least,  I'm betting on a new Pope by Easter.  

View of St. Peter's Through the Famed Keyhole"

As to the third question, the media (and Vegas- yes, you can actually put money on the next Pope!) has identified several front-runners, but since the cardinals are sworn to secrecy, it's really anyone's guess who the next Pope will be. However, names that often get thrown around are Marc Ouellet (of Quebec), Peter Turkson (of Ghana), Antonio Tagel (of the Philippines), and Angelo Scola (of Milan).  Choosing a non-European (and possibly even non-white) Pope would be a huge departure for the Catholic Church, but I expect that many Cardinals believe now is the right time.  In any case, I imagine there will be some lively debates.

So, how will we know when the new Pope is elected?  By watching for the smoke signal, of course!  Every time the Cardinals vote, the ballots are burned.  Black smoke indicates that no pope was elected, but when the white smoke comes, you better believe that everyone in the city will be running down to the Vatican- including us if we're in town!

It's true that as a non-Catholic, I don't really feel any personal or spiritual connection to the Papacy, but, from a historical perspective, it's still a very exciting event to be present for.        

In St. Peter's Square

And, regardless of your religious convictions, the Vatican really is a beautiful and interesting place to visit (new Pope or not).  St. Peter's Cathedral is truly part of the Roman landscape, since it can be seen from many parts of the city, but it's grandeur is best appreciated from St. Peter's Square.  The Square also contains two fountains and a obelisk, as well as massive amounts of tourists (and locals) who pass through every day.

Nearby you can also find items to fit all of your Vatican/Pope memorabilia needs, such as the ever-popular Popener (Pope themed bottle opener) or the 2013 Hot Priests Calendar (yes, seriously).

On Sundays, the Pope (when there is one!) gives a Sunday address and on those days the Square is literally packed with people (you sometimes have to elbow your way out afterward), many of whom hold signs or flags and cry and/or cheer when the Pope begins speaking in their own native language.  (He reads the address in about six different ones- Italian, French, Spanish, German, English, and Polish.) 

From the Hall of Maps

You could also spend days inside the Vatican museum, which houses the Vatican's huge collection of art, including Renaissance paintings, ancient sculpture, and other themed rooms that are difficult to explain like the Hall of Maps.   Much like the name indicates, this Hall is a hallway filled with historical maps of Italy and the surrounding region.  (My bizarre love of looking at maps coupled with the beautiful ceiling actually made this my favorite room at the Vatican.)

Of course, the Vatican is also home to my second favorite room (sorry,  but the maps win out!), the Sistine Chapel, which was painted by Michelangelo in the 1500s.  You can't take any pictures in the Chapel (or really talk without being shhh-ed by the guards), but there's so much to take in that no one seems to mind (although I did mind the crink I had in my neck after staring at the beautiful ceiling for twenty or so minutes!).  Incidentally, Tom, his parents (Diane and Jerry), and I just happened to visit the Sistine Chapel the day before they closed it down in anticipation of the conclave, which was pretty lucky (since it will be closed for a couple of weeks now, I imagine).      

Stock Photo of the Sistine Chapel

I realize this post is getting ridiculously long, but I really could go on and on about all of the adventures Tom and I have had in or near the Vatican, including trying out our (now) favorite Roman sandwich shop, and the time I got locked in the Vatican bathroom (I'm not exaggerating- they had to call the fire department to take the door down).  But perhaps I can tell you more about those experiences next time- once we have a new Pope!

Alla Prossima,

Erin 

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Thurs. March 7:  It's warmer (highs around 60) but rainy and windy.