Before I tell you all about the wonders of Tivoli, I actually have two embarrassing confessions to make. First, over the past few days I've become horribly addicted to the game "Candy Crush Saga." If you don't know what this is, you'll have to trust me that you're better off for it. Second, I've recently had the song "Party in the USA" stuck in my head. Random, right? Or maybe not. Could it actually a sign (through a kind of ridiculous pop song no less) that I'm starting to feel ready to head back to the States?
Don't get me wrong, I'm going to be really sad to leave Rome, and especially the Academy, but there are also a lot of things (in addition to our friends and family) that I miss about life back home. To name just a few, I miss Target and Trader Joe's and people who understand how to stand in lines, and the proliferation of Tex-Mex food (I'd seriously be willing to pay about $30 bucks for a black bean and plantains burrito from the Little Chihuahua in San Francisco right about now). And, I also miss not getting the flu every two months (which I've somehow managed to do here). But, honestly, in a weird way I'm actually glad that things aren't completely perfect here, since it will make leaving in a couple months just a tiny bit easier.
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| Statues around the "Canopus" at Hadrian's Villa |
In any case, after I recovered from my most recent bout of illness on Friday, Tom and I celebrated my recovery by spending a fantastic day in Tivoli. Tivoli is just 20 miles east of the city and is best known for two of its villas, Hadrian's Villa, and Villa d'Este.
Having visited both before, Tom assured me that there was a "best" order to visit the two Tivoli sites, so we headed first to Hadrian's Villa (which is on the outskirts of town). There are a couple of options to get to Tivoli from Rome, and we opted to take the Metro and transfer to a bus (you can also take a train). The trip went surprisingly smoothy (despite a brief period in which Tom and I both thought we might get sick on the very jerky bus), and we made it door-to-door in about two hours.
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| Courtyard Pond at Hadrian's Villa |
As you may have guessed (if you're at all up on your ancient history), Hadrian's Villa was built by the Roman emperor Hadrian (in the 2nd Century AD). Originally, it was a countryside retreat of sorts but, in later years, he actually ruled Rome from the Villa.
It's funny, before coming to Rome, I always thought of a "villa" as a single dwelling, but often, a villa is actually an entire complex. There are about 30 buildings at Hadrian's Villa, including two bathing complexes, dining rooms, artificial ponds, and many spaces, identified as things like theaters and temples and libraries, etc. However, it's still up for debate what many of the building were actually used for, and often the identifications seem rather dubious. In any case, it's absolutely crazy to imagine such a huge space as a private residence (especially if you can picture it in its original ornate state).
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| Grounds of Hadrian's Villa |
I should also clarify that there probably aren't nearly as many water features at Hadrian's Villa as my pictures may lead you to believe (at least not in comparison to the villa we visited afterward). But, since I personally love water, this is what most of my pictures inevitably end up being of (or maybe I just haven't learned to fully appreciate the look of ruins yet...).
The grounds of the Villa were also gorgeous and covered in olive trees, and we had a great time exploring. However, there wasn't a lot of shade, and since the weather has finally warmed up, we actually got really hot after a couple hours of walking around. At that point, Tom told me it was the perfect time to head over to Villa d'Este, and so we hopped another bus into the center of Tivoli, where it's located.
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| "Canopus" at Hadrian's Villa (view from the dining room) |
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| "Maritime Theater" (but probably not actually a theater) |
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| "Library Tower" (but probably not actually a library) |
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| Gardens (with Villa in the Background) |
I know I gush about most things I've seen here in Italy, but Villa d'Este might seriously be the most gorgeous place I have ever been to in my life. Unlike Hadrian's Villa, this villa is still completely standing (as it was commissioned in the late 1500s by Ippollito II d'Este, a Cardinal and Governor of Tivoli.
Although a ticket gets you into both the Villa and the gardens, the gardens are really what everyone comes for. Perhaps the word "gardens" doesn't quite do it justice, though, because it actually feels more like the greenest, most peaceful and beautiful park in the world.
The gardens are built into the side of a massive hill, and so as you walk down there are different "levels"- all tons of unique water features. I can't emphasize enough how much water there is. Literally everywhere you look there's some kind of fountain or grotto or babbling brook, and you can hear the flow of water all around you. As an added bonus, the gardens are nice and shady and the water spraying off all of the fountains actually cools you down (which is why Tom was anxious to head over once the heat set in).
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| Top Level of Organ Fountain (Organ is in the Central Opening) |
Although there are an endless amount of paths and features to explore, the main "attraction" of the gardens is the enormous Organ Fountain. Really, though "Organ Waterfall" would probably be a better name, because a massive amount of water drops several stories down from the top of the fountain.
Apparently, when Tom visited this villa in 2009, he had no idea why the Fountain was named "Organ Fountain" (he claimed that he thought Italians just picked goofy names for things). However, prior to our visit, I did some internet sleuthing and learned that the upper level of the fountain is actually an organ that plays music every two hours.
The first "performance" was supposedly at 10, so at 2 PM we waited around the fountain for five or ten minutes. But, when nothing happened, we gave up on it and started exploring other parts of the garden. Of course, though, in typical Italian fashion (where nothing runs on schedule), I heard a faint organ-like noise at precisely 2:37, and so we literally ran all the way back up the hill to hear the music. I think I was a bit more into it than Tom was, but, honestly, how often do you get a chance to hear a musical waterfall?!
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| Organ Fountain From Below |
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| Gardens And Surrounding Countryside |
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| Villa and Waterfalls |
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| View From Top of Organ Fountain |
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| Relaxing and Taking in the Views |
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| Tom Cooling Off in the Fountain Walkway |
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| View From Upper Gardens |
I could have stayed in the gardens all day (or for the rest of my life, really), but we were happy to make it back to the Academy in time for dinner. My only regret is that I discovered this place so late into my time here (so that I can't go back five more times!). Really, though, if you're ever in Rome, please take the time to go out and see this. You won't regret it- it truly blows all of the other villas out of the water.
Alla Prossima,
Erin
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Sun. June 9: After a long wait, summer is finally here. It's been warm with highs in the mid to upper 70s (but it feels much warmer in the sun).
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