Hot Town Summer in the (Eternal) City

Perhaps not everyone would agree, but summer has always been my favorite season.  The days are long and hot, and the air is filled with the calming hum of overworked air conditioners and the smell of nearby barbecues.  As a kid growing up in Minnesota, I'd insist on wearing shorts any time the temperature hit 60, and on those rare occasions when it reached 100, I was truly in heaven.  But, of course, more than anything, summer meant water.  Mornings at the lake were followed by afternoon walks along the river, and if I was lucky, I might have even gotten a nice late-night thunderstorm to lull me to sleep.

The lack of "real summer" was one of my (few) major complaints about living in San Francisco, and so getting to experience summer in Rome (despite its late arrival) has been fantastic (not to mention good preparation for moving to very hot and sticky Eastern Virginia).  Really, though, the whole city seems to be buzzing with activity after a relatively sleepy winter, and many of our usual haunts seem familiar, yet somehow radically transformed.  It's a bit like returning to school the summer after 7th grade only to discover that the boys now sound like men, the girls look more like women, and everyone is about four inches taller.

Tents Along the Tiber

Here in Rome, the most noticeable change is down along the Tiber where a mile or so of my old running path (as well as all of Tiber island) has been transformed into an area that can only be described as a Bohemian Beer Garden Carnival Bonanza. Basically, hundreds of independent shops, restaurants, and bars have set up temporary space under little white tents all along the river and around the island.  However, their creative use of lighting, comfortable furniture, and trendy design often gives the illusion of permanency. There's also all kinds of entertainment available- everything from outdoor movies to foosball tables, to carnies challenging you to knock over all the bottles and win a prize.   

Transformed Bike Path

Being the lame 30-somethings that we are, Tom and I have really only been down there on a couple of occasions, and have always headed home by 10 or 11.  But, we've really had a lot of fun walking around, people-watching, and breathing the fried cheese-curd like scent that fills the air.  (Unfortunately, if cheese curds really exist here, we haven't yet found them.)  However, the real party usually seems to just be getting started around the time that we're heading home.  At that time, hundreds of scantily-dressed teens and college kids begin to converge along the river, where I imagine they will hang out and drink (and get sick) until the wee hours of the morning.  (The drinking age here in Italy is only 16.)  Really, I'm quite happy to get out of there before that scene really gets going!

In addition to our trips to the river, our summer in Rome has been filled with lots of our other favorite warm-weather activities like barbecues in the Bass Garden, warm weather runs in the park (at least for one of us), and even fireworks, which are occasionally shot off during weddings or charity events at the Villa Aurelia.  (We have a fantastic view of these fireworks from the 4th floor balcony of our building.)  However, the one glaring omission in our summer fun was sufficient time in the water, and so last week Tom and I took a day trip up to Lake Bracciano.

Lake Bracciano From Town

Town Square and Castle

Lake Bracciano is a fairly large lake (it's more than 20 miles around) located an hour north of Rome by train.  There are a few different towns along the lake, but we stopped at Bracciano, which, like most small Italian towns, was quaint and Medieval looking.  However, unlike many other towns, this one had its very own castle (which, apparently, was the latest-occupied castle in all of Europe).  From town, it was about a fifteen minute downhill walk to the lake, and although we knew we were headed in the right direction, the whole area felt strangely rural and deserted.

When we finally made it down to the shore, we were amazed by what we found.  Not only was the view completely breathtaking (the landscape reminded us of a strange (but awesome) mix between Minnesota and California wine country), but the scene was surprisingly quiet and relaxed for a hot day in the middle of summer.  Of course, there were quite a few people out enjoying the beautiful weather, but there were still plenty of open spots on the pebble-covered beach and the lakeside restaurants were virtually empty (and completely affordable).

Enjoying Some Pizzas and a Beautiful View (I really should have used the flash on this one...)

View From our Beach Spot

(We had so much fun that we even took this ridiculous self-portrait)

Is it possible that Lake Bracciano is one of the few spots in Italy still virtually undiscovered by tourists?  I'm truly shocked that a place so beautiful isn't already completely overtaken by 5-star hotels and shoreline bars serving 12 Euro martinis.  I can't tell you how glad I am that it's not, though.  So, when I say that I now think of Bracciano as "the poor man's Lake Como," I really mean that as the highest compliment.  Sure, maybe it can't quite match Northern Italy's Como in size, beauty, or elegance (at least from what I've heard- I've never been), but the lazy day we spent on the beach, reading, swimming and watching the ducks and boats float by is one of the best days I've spent here in Italy.  And the fact that we got to do all of that away from crowds of people and fancy restaurants that we can't afford made the experience even better!  

Ducks!

Boats!

In a way, I'm very sad to be leaving Rome right as things here are (literally) heating up.  But, I really can't complain when we have three weeks of exciting Eastern European adventures coming up.  And soon after that we'll be back in the US buying all the Trader Joes's "Fruit Frenzy" popsicles we can eat.  (If you haven't tried them, do yourself a favor and buy some on your next trip!)  Call me crazy, but when it's this hot, I'd take popsicles over gelato any day.

Alla Prossima,
Erin

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Sat. July 6:  It's "real summer."  Sunny with highs in the mid to upper 80s.  There's no air conditioning at the Academy, but our open window and ceiling fan keeps things decently cool.

Top Five Signs That You've Been Living in Rome For Too Long

Well, the final countdown is officially here.  In just a little over a week we leave Rome for a three week trip to Prague, Budapest, and Croatia.  (I know, I feel like the luckiest person alive.)  And then, when we get back to Rome, we only have two days to pack up before we catch a plane to Baltimore, drive down to Williamsburg, move into our new home, unpack, buy a car, and begin our new lives as a legal writing professor and a post-doc (who splits his time between Pisa and VA).  I'm not sure that I've even fully processed my feelings about everything at this point- it's just so incredibly exciting and terrifying all at the same time.  

In any case, as you've probably gathered from the blog, I've had an absolutely incredible year here in Italy and at the Academy, and am going to miss so many people, places, and aspects of Italian/Academy living when we go.  But, at the same time, there are also a whole lot of people and places that I miss back home, and I'm actually feeling a bit ready to resume "normal life" again.  So, with that in mind, here' are my top 5 signs that you've been living in Rome for too long:

Castel San'Angelo (Formerly Hadrian's Mausoleum, built in 135 AD ) 

One: Anything built after 1700 seems extremely "modern."  You know how when you're in the in the US people are totally wowed and amazed by 19th (and even early 20th) century buildings?  That seems completely ridiculous to me now.  The building I'm currently living in was built in the 1910s and it practically feels like  the most cutting-edge place around. Not to mention that most of the buildings in the US were built with local materials like wood and brick.  Really, how hard was that?  It's not like they had to transport huge slabs of granite from thousands of miles away (through the desert, uphill both ways) or anything.  Really, USA, come talk to me once your building is more like 2000 years old, has survived a bunch of wars, flooding, pillaging (and perhaps was turned into a fortress or something else equally cool).  Then maybe I'll be impressed.  

Two: You become convinced that the normal bedtime of all two-year-olds should be midnight.  I swear, the average toddler in Rome enjoys the night life more than Tom and I have for years!  Just wander down to any evening "hot-spot" in the city and you'll see dozens of parents out and about with their very small children (often with a glass of wine and/or cigarette in hand- I mean the parents, not the kids- not quite yet anyway). Sometimes the little ones are dozing in their strollers, but other times they're wide-awake and scampering about.  Of course, as an American, my first reaction to seeing this was shock and horror.  Shouldn't these precious bundles of joy be tucked into their comfy cribs full of pastel blankets and stuffed animals no later than 8 PM?  But then someone explained to me that this way, the kid sleeps in to around 10 or 11 AM  (and takes an early evening nap) and that it gives the parents plenty of time to recover and get some work done the morning after their night out. Maybe this schedule wouldn't work out so well if the child had to go to daycare on weekdays, but if there was a stay-at-home parent or a nanny/babysitter, does it really matter when the kid sleeps as long as he/she gets enough of it?  Is this actually the answer to parents' complaints that their kids never sleep in and/or that they have "no life" post-baby due to early bedtimes and pricey sitters?  Maybe Americans are really missing out on something great here!

Gelato covered in Olive Oil

Three: You start thinking about, referring to, and/or using olive oil as a "sauce." Before moving to Rome, olive oil wasn't much more than my favorite cooking oil. Sure, I also occasionally mixed it with some balsamic for an easy salad dressing, but that was about the extent of it- and I used it sparingly at that. But now, I've started using it for all sorts of things without really thinking about it.  Is the bread a little dry?  Dip it in olive oil, of course!  Have no sauce for your pasta? Drench it in olive oil!  Need a topping for your buffalo milk gelato?  Smother it in olive oil and sea salt!  (Okay, I'm not actually a big fan of that one, but Tom is.) And the crazy thing is, neither Tom or I have gained a pound despite the massive quantities we consume. The next thing you know, I'll be pouring it over my breakfast cereal...

Four: When you're annoyed, the first word out of your mouth is "Dai!"  Strictly translated, this expression (pronounced like "die") means "come on."  But, when it's articulated in a particularly exasperated, whiny tone (especially by a female), it actually means something more like "C'mmmoonnn you big stupid meany-face, why can't you just do what I want you to do? Pllllleeeeaaaaasssse."  Needless to say, it can be a helpful expression at times.  On the other hand, this word can also be used in a motivational/encouraging manner, which leads to some pretty hilarious anecdotes from confused Americans.  The best two stories I've heard was the marathon runner who thought all the spectators wanted him to "die," as he panted his way through 26+ miles, and the Jewish football coach (hired to teach Italians American football) who was greatly disturbed when the team captain started shouting "Dai giù!"(pronounced like "die jew") during push-up drills.  Of course, this was totally appropriate, since all it means something like "c'mon, get down!"  But, still, as a native English speaker, I think I'll try to stick with just plain "Dai" should I ever find myself in a similar situation.  

        

Awful "Mexican Food" (but with a lovely river view (river not pictured))

Five: You'd consider trading your left arm (or at least a finger or two) for just one meal of decent Mexican food.  I know I've complained about this before, but Tex-Mex just may be my favorite kind of food, and it's virtually non-existent here in Rome. Sure, you can try to cobble together your own version after hitting up no less than three separate stores (the regular grocery store, the foreign foods store (which sells salsa), and the only market (way across town) that sells cilantro).  But, at the end of the day, you still have to make do with mediocre (at best) avocados and whatever cheese you can find that's the least mozzarella-like (there's no cheddar or jack here).  But, sadly, trying to get your Tex-Mex fix at a Roman restaurant leads to even worse results. The last time I tried this, my "vegetarian burrito meal" consisted of a tiny tortilla completely filled with some sort of Italian white cheese and canned peppers, a side of canned black beans, and some plain white rice (which Italians seemed to think qualified as "Mexican rice" simply because it wasn't risotto).  Really, it completely baffles me that no ex-pats have opened a decent Tex-Mex joint because they'd make a total killing with all of the tourists and college students in town.  (No matter what you think, trust me, you can really only eat pasta and pizza for so many days before you start chasing after the smells of anything non-Italian like a stray dog.) Of course, my burrito standards might be a bit high after living in San Francisco for several years, but at this point, even Chipotle sounds like heaven!  Good thing there's one in Williamsburg (and it's right next to the Dairy Queen, in case you were wondering).  Ah, good ol' American fast-food chains, it only took a year apart to realize how much I really do need you.  

Alla Prossima,

Erin 

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Sun. June 30:  We're no longer freezing cold or sweltering hot.  We've settled into a nice moderate temperature pattern (highs in the low 80s), which hopefully will stick around for a while. 

Bellissimo Venezia

Well, I can hardly believe it, but our very last group of visitors for the year has now come and gone.  Tom and I had a great time showing my dad, step-mom and little sister around Rome, but we actually began the visit by spending a couple of days together in Venice.  Neither Tom or I had ever been to Venice before, and, since I had heard some mixed reports, I didn't exactly know what to expect.  I have to say, though, that I'm so glad we went because it's one of the most unique places I've ever visited.  

Venice's Grand Canal

Sure, it's true, Venice does have a bit of a "Disney World" feel to it, and on any given day (at least in the summer) there are probably 5-10 times as many tourists as locals in the city.  If you're looking to get a glimpse of the "authentic" Italian way of life, this is probably not the place to do it. But, at the same time, Venice is such an interesting and stunningly beautiful place that I can't imagine avoiding it altogether for those reasons.  And, really, you only have to wander a little bit off the beaten path to avoid most of the crowds.

Venice is located just off the northeastern coast of Italy, about 4 hours (by train) from Rome.  Its world famous canals are due to the fact that this "island" city is actually made up of over a hundred tiny islands.  Many bridges connect the islands to each other, and of course, the intervening canals are filled with gondolas (and many other boats, including ambulance boats fire boats, and trash boats).  As you may have gathered, there are no motor vehicles (aside from boats, of course) allowed in Venice, and so this is a place where "taking the bus" means taking the vaporetto (water bus) up or down the main canal, which separates the small island in two.  Once you're in the general neighborhood, though, it's pretty easy to walk (down tiny alleys and over various stone bridges) to get to your destination (although a "direct" route is rarely possible and you'll likely run into several dead ends along the way).  The lack of cars made the city feel unbelievably peaceful, though, and despite all of the crowds, my memories of Venice are filled with the sounds of lapping water and squawking sea gulls.

Gondolas 

Peaceful Side Street

Water Bus on the Canal

You may have heard that Venice is "sinking," but the more accurate statement is that the water level is rising (due to global warming and other factors). Although the water level is rising at fairly slow rate (most estimates put it around 2 mm/year), this still poses a big risk to the city, since massive destructive floods are becoming more and more common. Fortunately, the MOSE Project, a massive flood protection system (scheduled for completion sometime in 2014), should protect the Venetian Lagoon from much future damage.  I imagine that many Venetians haven't been thrilled about some of the changes that tourism has brought to the city over the past several decades.  However, if there's any silver lining, perhaps the booming tourism industry (and resulting influx of money) has actually helped to fund the types of projects that will protect the city over the next several decades.

Piazza San Marco (from the water bus) with Campanile on left

Venice is actually fairly small, and you can easily walk around the bulk of the island in one day.  We really enjoyed just wandering through the narrow alleyways off of the Main Canal and taking in the sights and sounds of the city. Venice's main square, "Piazza San Marco," is located on the southeastern shore of the city, and once served as its political and religious center. We stayed nearby and visited both the Piazza's beautiful Gothic Basillica  di San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale.  The Palazzo was once the residence of the ruler of Venice, and also housed the courts and prison.  Today, you can tour much of the ornate building as well as enjoy a lot of art and other displayed period objects, such as swords and armor.

View from the San Marco Campanile

More Campanile Views

Enjoying Burano

There are also many other small islands near Venice, and one of my favorite activities was taking the "bus" out to two of them, Murano, and Burano.  These islands are known for their glass work and lace work, respectively, and we had a really good time learning a bit more about the local crafts and visiting the dozens of gift shops on each island.  Of the two, Burano, which is is full of rainbow colored buildings, was definitely my favorite (at least from a visual standpoint).  But, both had their own charm and the weather was perfect for wandering and just hanging out.  The islands were fairly small (Burano, in fact, was tiny), and so we were able to explore them both thoroughly in just a few hours.

Murano

Colorful Burano

Burano

I'm not sure what it would be like to live in Venice (sadly, for the locals, I'm sure the touristy feel would get old fairly quickly), but I thought it was an absolutely fantastic place to visit.  The food was good, the people were friendly, and the scenery was absolutely breathtaking.

Speaking of living somewhere, as you may have heard, I recently accepted a job that will be taking me to Williamsburg, Virginia this fall.  (Tom will be back and forth between Pisa and VA.)  It's going to be quite a change (after living San Francisco and Rome), but I'm sure it will be quite the adventure (even if Home Sweet Williamsburg doesn't quite have the same ring to it!).    

Alla Prossima,
Erin

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Fri. June 20:  It's gone from pleasantly warm to HOT.  Temps have been in the low to mid-90s for the last few days.  We're feeling really grateful for our ceiling fan right about now!

One Villa, Two Villa, Old Villa, New Villa (Our Day in Tivoli)

Before I tell you all about the wonders of Tivoli, I actually have two embarrassing confessions to make.  First, over the past few days I've become horribly addicted to the game "Candy Crush Saga."  If you don't know what this is, you'll have to trust me that you're better off for it.  Second, I've recently had the song "Party in the USA" stuck in my head.  Random, right?  Or maybe not.  Could it actually a sign (through a kind of ridiculous pop song no less) that I'm starting to feel ready to head back to the States?

Don't get me wrong, I'm going to be really sad to leave Rome, and especially the Academy, but there are also a lot of things (in addition to our friends and family) that I miss about life back home.  To name just a few, I miss Target and Trader Joe's and people who understand how to stand in lines, and the proliferation of Tex-Mex food (I'd seriously be willing to pay about $30 bucks for a black bean and plantains burrito from the Little Chihuahua in San Francisco right about now).  And, I also miss not getting the flu every two months (which I've somehow managed to do here).  But, honestly, in a weird way I'm actually glad that things aren't completely perfect here, since it will make leaving in a couple months just a tiny bit easier.

Statues around the "Canopus" at Hadrian's Villa

In any case, after I recovered from my most recent bout of illness on Friday, Tom and I celebrated my recovery by spending a fantastic day in Tivoli.  Tivoli is just 20 miles east of the city and is best known for two of its villas, Hadrian's Villa, and Villa d'Este.

Having visited both before, Tom assured me that there was a "best" order to visit the two Tivoli sites, so we headed first to Hadrian's Villa (which is on the outskirts of town). There are a couple of options to get to Tivoli from Rome, and we opted to take the Metro and transfer to a bus (you can also take a train).  The trip went surprisingly smoothy (despite a brief period in which Tom and I both thought we might get sick on the very jerky bus), and we made it door-to-door in about two hours.

Courtyard Pond at Hadrian's Villa

As you may have guessed (if you're at all up on your ancient history), Hadrian's Villa was built by the Roman emperor Hadrian (in the 2nd Century AD).  Originally, it was a countryside retreat of sorts  but, in later years, he actually ruled Rome from the Villa.

It's funny, before coming to Rome, I always thought of a "villa" as a single dwelling, but often, a villa is actually an entire complex. There are about 30 buildings at Hadrian's Villa, including two bathing complexes, dining rooms, artificial ponds, and many spaces, identified as things like theaters and temples and libraries, etc.  However, it's still up for debate what many of the building were actually used for, and often the identifications seem rather dubious.  In any case, it's absolutely crazy to imagine such a huge space as a private residence (especially if you can picture it in its original ornate state).

Grounds of Hadrian's Villa

I should also clarify that there probably aren't nearly as many water features at Hadrian's Villa as my pictures may lead you to believe (at least not in comparison to the villa we visited afterward).  But, since I personally love water, this is what most of my pictures inevitably end up being of (or maybe I just haven't learned to fully appreciate the look of ruins yet...).

The grounds of the Villa were also gorgeous and covered in olive trees, and we had a great time exploring.  However, there wasn't a lot of shade, and since the weather has finally warmed up, we actually got really hot after a couple hours of walking around.  At that point, Tom told me it was the perfect time to head over to Villa d'Este, and so we hopped another bus into the center of Tivoli, where it's located.

"Canopus" at Hadrian's Villa (view from the dining room)

"Maritime Theater" (but probably not actually a theater)

"Library Tower" (but probably not actually a library)

Gardens (with Villa in the Background)

I know I gush about most things I've seen here in Italy, but Villa d'Este might seriously be the most gorgeous place I have ever been to in my life.  Unlike Hadrian's Villa, this villa is still completely standing (as it was commissioned in the late 1500s by Ippollito II d'Este, a Cardinal and Governor of Tivoli.

Although a ticket gets you into both the Villa and the gardens, the gardens are really what everyone comes for.  Perhaps the word "gardens" doesn't quite do it justice, though, because it actually feels more like the greenest, most peaceful and beautiful park in the world.

The gardens are built into the side of a massive hill, and so as you walk down there are different "levels"- all tons of  unique water features.  I can't emphasize enough how much water there is.  Literally everywhere you look there's some kind of fountain or grotto or babbling brook, and you can hear the flow of water all around you.  As an added bonus, the gardens are nice and shady and the water spraying off all of the fountains actually cools you down (which is why Tom was anxious to head over once the heat set in).  

Top Level of Organ Fountain (Organ is in the Central Opening)

Although there are an endless amount of paths and features to explore, the main "attraction" of the gardens is the enormous Organ Fountain.  Really, though "Organ Waterfall" would probably be a better name, because a massive amount of water drops several stories down from the top of the fountain.

Apparently, when Tom visited this villa in 2009, he had no idea why the Fountain was named "Organ Fountain" (he claimed that he thought Italians just picked goofy names for things).  However, prior to our visit, I did some internet sleuthing and learned that the upper level of the fountain is actually an organ that plays music every two hours.

The first "performance" was supposedly at 10, so at 2 PM we waited around the fountain for five or ten minutes.  But, when nothing happened, we gave up on it and started exploring other parts of the garden.  Of course, though, in typical Italian fashion (where nothing runs on schedule), I heard a faint organ-like noise at precisely 2:37, and so we literally ran all the way back up the hill to hear the music.  I think I was a bit more into it than Tom was, but, honestly, how often do you get a chance to hear a musical waterfall?!

Organ Fountain From Below

Gardens And Surrounding Countryside

Villa and Waterfalls 

View From Top of Organ Fountain

Relaxing and Taking in the Views

Tom Cooling Off in the Fountain Walkway

View From Upper Gardens

I could have stayed in the gardens all day (or for the rest of my life, really), but we were happy to make it back to the Academy in time for dinner.  My only regret is that I discovered this place so late into my time here (so that I can't go back five more times!).  Really, though, if you're ever in Rome, please take the time to go out and see this.  You won't regret it- it truly blows all of the other villas out of the water.

Alla Prossima,
Erin

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Sun. June 9:  After a long wait, summer is finally here.  It's been warm with highs in the mid to upper 70s (but it feels much warmer in the sun).

April Showers Bring May Flowers

Before I get into the real subject of this post, I should probably clarify something about title.  "April showers" is actually a bit of a misnomer.  We keep waiting for summer to come, but it's actually been cold, windy, and often rainy for much of this month, too (so cold, in fact, that the Academy recently moved meals from outside back inside last week!)  At this rate, I'm skeptical that I'm ever going to make use of all of the tank tops and sundresses that I packed!

Academy Courtyard (covered in beautiful but sneeze-producing flowers)

In any case, though, if you can manage to escape the rain, May is actually a really beautiful time to be in Rome.  Absolutely everything here is in bloom, the streets are filled with al fresco dining options, and the entire city feels revived after a relatively sleepy winter.  (Incidentally, my allergies are also revived- I swear, I've sneezed more in the past month than I have in all the 30 years leading up to it.)

So, when we've gotten breaks in the rain over the past few days, I decided to load my pockets with kleenex, and check out two of the best places in Rome to enjoy spring:  the rose garden and the botanical gardens.

Rose Garden

I visited the rose gardens on my own one very windy day last week (while Tom was finishing up some work).  It's easy to get to-it's just across from the Circus Maximus (and open from about Mid-May through June).  The park was actually two small parks (separated by a small road), but each side was packed with hundreds of varieties of roses.  It was incredibly beautiful, and actually reminded me a little of the Lake Harriet Rose Garden (back in Minneapolis).  And best of all, it's completely free!

Despite the hordes of tourists down by the Circus Maximus (and the nearby Forum and Colosseum),  the rose garden was surprisingly empty.  Perhaps it's off most people's radar, or maybe most tourists don't want to "waste time" seeing something that they could see in their hometown.  But, if you ask me, that's a rather narrow view, because I'm pretty sure most of their hometown rose gardens don't have views of a ancient ruins in the background.  Of course, though, I was perfectly happy having this garden practically to myself (especially after battling through crowds around the Colosseum to get there)!  It'd be a great spot to spend the afternoon with a book (which perhaps I'll do on a less windy day in the near future).

More Rose Garden

Even More Rose Garden (with Palatine Hill in Background)

Tom in the Botanical Garden (with a new haircut and our trusty map)

Then today, Tom and I finally made a visit to the botanical garden that's right here in our own neighborhood.  We've probably walked by the "entrance" up here on the Gianicolo Hill a hundred times, but in typical Italian fashion, the gate was always closed and locked.  As we learned from our friends who scoped it out first, it turns out that that they actually only sell tickets at another gate, which is a ten minute walk down the hill.  Again, if you ask me (which no one ever seems to do), they'd do much better keeping both gates open.  I can't tell you how many times confused-looking people have stopped me near the locked gate to ask how to get into the garden (and so I'm sure the they are  missing out on lots of entrance fees).  But running businesses efficiently doesn't exactly seem to be a priority around here!

Water Fountain Stairway (and me)

Still, I'm glad we took the time to figure out how to get into the garden, because we really enjoyed seeing it.  It doesn't necessarily stack up to some of the other botanical gardens I've seen (like in Brooklyn or Berkeley), but it was still very pretty and (as an added bonus) occasionally provided great views of the city.  There were herb gardens, flower gardens, a Japanese garden, a bamboo forest, a beautiful stairway fountain, and something called an "evergreen wood" (although we found this a bit confusing, since we couldn't locate even a single evergreen).  And, on the way out, we were able to sneak out of a hole in the fence near the locked entrance, and ended up practically back at the Academy!

Amazing Flower (anyone know what this is?!)

View of Rome From the Gardens

Bamboo

It's also a good thing that we got a chance to connect with nature and relax a bit because this week is going to be busy.  All of the trustees of the Academy are in town, and so there are a whole slew of new people here and tons of events (concerts, cocktail parties, ceremonies, open studios, etc.) happening every day.  And, on Friday Tom will be leading some of the trustees on a walk through the Forum.

Now, I know what you're thinking, and, yes, this week will be a lot of fun and, yes, we are extremely lucky to be here among so many interesting and talented people.  But, for a couple of introverts like us, meeting so many new people and having so many social engagements in a short period of time can also be a bit overwhelming and exhausting!  Still, we're also looking forward to all of the wonderful experiences this week will bring.  And, if it gets to be too much, perhaps I will have to sneak back through that hole in the fence into the botanical gardens!  

Alla Prossima,
Erin

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Mon. May 27:  Finally a day of sun after a couple of cold and rainy weeks!  Still, the highs have been about 10 degrees colder than normal.  And it's been freezing at night!  I'm ready for summer now, please!

A Day in Sperlonga: Beaches, Caves, and Crazy Statues

One of my favorite things about living in Rome is the ability to hop on a train, spend only an hour or so of your time (and only about ten bucks), and wind up somewhere completely different from where you started. As you may have noticed, Tom and I are trying to do this as often as possible before our time here is up, and so today we headed down to Sperlonga with a couple of our friends from the Academy.

Sperlonga

Sperlonga is a small coastal town about halfway between Rome and Naples.  The beautiful (and clean!) sandy beach stretches for miles, and at the height of summer hundreds of people flock daily to its umbrella covered lounge chairs to relax and sip on fruity drinks.  However, perhaps the area hasn't quite caught on with tourists that way that Amalfi or Cinque Terre has yet because, even on a warm Saturday in May, it was still fairly quiet.  

Like all of the Italian coast that I've seen, the landscape is absolutely stunning.  The old (often white washed) buildings are charming, and the surrounding land is brilliantly green and blue, hilly and rocky, and there are all kinds of interesting plants and flowers everywhere you look (including cactuses (or is it cacti?) and trees producing little pods that looked like beans).  It's really no surprise, then, that Sperlonga was a resort town even in ancient times.

Wildflowers

Villa Ruins

In fact, one of the main attractions in town are the ruins of an enormous seaside villa (which many claim belonged to the Roman emperor Tiberius). The highlight of the villa is the huge cave/grotto, which served as a dining room. Inside, diners would have enjoyed sweeping views through the cave's opening out to the ocean.  They also would have been surrounded by pools of water and beautiful statues, many of which are now housed in a nearby museum.  Not too shabby, huh?

The most prominent statue (which would have sat in the center pool) depicted a scene from the Odyssey where the monster Skylla attacked the ship.  This crazy looking statue is a bit difficult to figure out (especially since only some of it survives today), but it makes a bit more sense if you know that Skylla was a beautiful woman from the waist up and a pack of barking dogs from the waist down (if you can imagine that).  Still, I swear that one of the figures actually looks MUCH more like an embarrassed pig (who's holding his hand over his face like "how did I get myself into this mess?!")

Statue in Museum (Don't even try to tell me the figure highlighted in purple isn't an embarrassed pig!!)

Tom "Dining" in the Cave/Dining Room (and fish in the pool)

View From Inside the Cave (The ship statue would have been in this pool).

Our (Failed?) Attempt at Traditional Roman Portraiture (on built-in stone seats!)

Looking Back Toward the Villa

In any case, we spent most of the morning wandering around the museum and villa, and then headed out to the beach.  Unfortunately, though, the wind picked up and the sun was being a bit fickle, so Tom was the only one daring enough to actually swim.  Despite figuring that his body temperature dropped about ten degrees in the water, he claims that he had a good time.  And the rest of us at least enjoyed watching him from our warm towels.

Beach!

Back in town

Afterward, we had a late pizza lunch, caught the bus back to the train station, the train back to Rome, a cab back to the Academy, and made it back in time to do some grocery shopping before dinner.  It was a quick trip, but a fantastic one (how can anything involving sun, caves, and beaches not be?), and the four of us are already on to planning our next exciting day-trip adventure.

Alla Prossima,
Erin

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Sun. May 12:  The mild spring weather continues with highs in the 70s and a mix of sun and clouds.